Charles James & SK WiLBUR

 
Last week I had the pleasure of visiting the Charles James: Beyond Fashion exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  I was first introduced to the genius of Charles James when I was a fashion design student in my 20s  at FIT.  Ushered into the close quarters of the school's fashion laboratory, my class was allowed to marvel at the underpinnings of one of James's works of art while the gloved hand of one of the lab workers peeled back each layer of fabric and tulle.  Needless to say, the experience left quite an impression on me. 

So many years later, when I was presenting my collection of dresses for the curvy woman, I referenced the iconic photo of women elegantly sheathed in Charles James gowns shot by Cecil Beaton.  I just thought it was the height of haute couture.  And I wanted to show that women of size could be just as elegant.  Now after eschewing the bright lights and drama of apparel, my focus has shifted to handbags.  Yet, in the ensuing years,  I am still awed by one of my design heroes.

 

Peace & Fashion!

Thankful

Earlier this evening I swapped ideas with Ray. If you'll recall, I met Ray at a birthday celebration for my friend Stephen last month. And after speaking with him over the phone, I immediately knew that he is a creative force to be reckoned with. Actually, many of you ladies have probably worn some of his fabulous shoe designs for Coach or Nine West. The thing about Ray that is most endearing is that there is no pretense or fakery. He is just a vessel for creativity whether he expresses himself through apparel, jewelry, shoes, or fine art. And in the fashion world that is a rarity. I know you've watched Project Runway, so you know a little about the cattiness. And since I really wanted to get some input on the fall collection I am cobbling together from someone whom I truly respect, Ray just fit the bill. So I showed him my inspiration board which is filled with images, i.e. the pocket chain watch, the spat, the bow tie, etc. which are motifs of the dandy look. I showed him my first sample and described the jewelry which I am also designing to enhance the theme. And he thought I was really on the right path. After I had shared my work, Ray showed me some of his clothing designs from his college days as well as his presentation boards of his shoe designs. And it all just blew me away. We definitely have a mutual appreciation for each other's aesthetic. And before rushing off to catch my train home, we have vowed to meet soon and check out the latest exhibits at the Cooper Hewitt Museum and The Museum at F.I.T. He is a kindred spirit in fashion and connecting with him is something I can truly be thankful for this Thanksgiving.

Peace & Fashion!

A Little of This & Some Of That

If you're reading and following my odyssey, then you know that last week I made a bold move when I asked you to make a monetary donation to help me finish my collection. I tried to figure out another way to complete the remaining 7 samples without having to resort to taking up residence on the streets, but it seems that I have run out of options. Of course I never thought of pole dancing, but I don't think I have enough of a fan base to justify those kind of moves. And besides, my talent really lies in fashion design. Already I've raised $250. Thanks Guys! But we are still quite a ways off from funding this endeavor. So please keep it coming. I've robbed from Peter to pay George who has begun work on the next look. And I am elated by the thought of having my model Ila come in and have the muslin fitted sometime this week.

On Saturday night, I bumped into my friend Calvin C. on the commuter train. He admitted to being exhausted by his own fashion odyssey. I met Calvin several years ago after I had produced a runway spectacle showcasing my pieces as part of a charity event held at the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.). We were introduced by one of my models and he was a graduating fashion design student at the time. Now he has created a website called styleapple.com in order to help people in the fashion industry find jobs. He holds me in reverence because he says I just put all my business out there. And in an industry that is known for hype and smoke & mirrors, that takes guts. I confided in Calvin that writing this blog is, in a way, cleansing and therapeutic. It provides an outlet to get things off my chest and leave them at the alter of disappointment and disgust. This way I am not emotionally held back from pressing forward. And I think we all need to purge every once in a while. But I need it more than most.

A couple of months ago, a young man introduced himself to me on the 6 train. As I squeezed into a seat with my dresses hanging above me, Eric J. asked me if I was a stylist or a designer. We exchanged pleasantries and business cards during my ride before I quickly reached my stop. But I was impressed by Eric's audacity because nobody ever approaches me on the subway unless they're begging for money. Last week we met at a Starbucks close to the plantation. Eric is a very talented hairstylist who hails from the hinterlands of Texas. And I shared with him my vision for the collection and showed him the sketches, the first samples, and the shoes. He was positive and deeply spiritual and we hit it off just fine. And now we are planning to work together on the photo shoot in January. I think that this will be a fruitful collaboration.

I've got big dreams. Each time I finish a collection, I believe that this will be the one that has store buyers ringing my phone off the hook with orders and shoppers chanting my name and magazines begging to borrow the pieces for their shoots. And then other times I wonder if I am on the right path to turn my dreams into reality. But I am always encouraged by friends, as well as strangers, to just stay the course. And that is exactly what I plan on doing.

Peace & Fashion!

The Secret to Happiness

Today I was at the plantation talking to one of my fellow indentured servants about the quest to identify one's purpose. Yes, at times, I can be very deep and profound. Meghan, whom I fondly refer to as Meghanomics (Don't try to make sense of it; I just have a penchant for nicknames), has made an important decision to return to school. This fall she will begin classes to become a court reporter. It is a sensible profession. And on these courtroom dramas in the movies and on television, a court reporter is always a fixture in the climactic scene. But I have disagreed with Meghan's decision so strongly about her career choice, that I've even been so bold as to speak to her mother about it. But what do I know? Meghan is quietly charismatic and funny and charming and I believe her gifts will be squandered behind her stenotype machine. But it is Meghan's decision that has caused me to look back on my own past as I tried to lay the course to my purpose.

I entered Hillcrest High School as a student in its renowned pre-med program. I tried my hand at theatre careers and settled on accounting by the time I graduated. In college, I studied business at Baruch College here in the city before dropping out after 4 long years. While working at the plantation, I discovered fashion design and felt like a fish to water. But I was not successful taking classes at night at the Fashion Institute of Technology because I lacked the necessary remedial sewing skills. I went on to cosmetology school where I completed my coursework and passed my state licensing exam. I can style, cut, and color hair, but it's not something I am particularly passionate about. So here I am, embracing my fashion design instincts and talents. And I just hire other people to sew up my illustrations. And I am happy.

I told Meghanomics that she should find out what makes her happy and make a career out of it. After so many detours, I did. In the meantime, she'll be transcribing her heart out starting next month. I wish her luck.

Peace & Fashion!

Take Two and Call Me In The Morning

I am weary. I have not had time to notice that summer's end is fast approaching because my spirit and my mind and most of my energy is so focused on the development and evolution of Wilbur, my new line of cocktail dresses. How are we going to find the perfect sales professional before it's too late? It has to be someone who can fully grasp our aesthetic and commit wholly to our vision of bringing a fresh approach to cocktail dressing? Patience is a virtue, but it is truly overrated.

Earlier this week my friend Donelle referred a mutual acquaintance to me for the position. "Why not ask her? Although her background is merchandise buying for young contemporary and plus sizes, she's been out of work for nearly a year. It's worth a try." It seemed an intelligent and knowing recommendation. So I went for the gusto. But in the back of my mind, I didn't think it would work out. Lisa F. has never been supportive when I've reached out to her in the past. And in fact, she's ignored my requests when I would ask for potential introductions to people that she knew. Not returning phone calls in a timely manner is her standard approach to me. So when she did it this time, it really came as no surprise. Yet, I still find it tired and rude. Oh well! On to the next.

Today I received an email from the manager of the furniture store that had met with me last week. He was interested in organizing a cross-promotional event at the space that would feature emerging fashion designers and visual artists. But the company heads decided to take a different approach. Because they want to maximize press coverage, they have decided to stage a runway presentation featuring already established high-end designers. Although I completely understand their decision, it still stinks. Established designers already have plenty of clout in the marketplace. It's us little guys that could really benefit from this kind of exposure. Could someone throw me a bone please?! Apparently the event planner that the manager was originally working with was scrapped and replaced with a fashion public relations firm who is connected to A-list apparel companies. These A-list apparel companies are even getting paid to participate. From the first meeting, it was made clear to me and the other potential participants that we would have to pay for our own models, make-up artists, and hairstylists out of pocket. Although the A-list designers have the financing to pay for their own, us emerging designers who barely have two pennies to rub together have to scrape together our coins to make it happen. How ironic.

Today I took a break from the grind and took Vaughn, the young man I mentor, to see the Model As Muse exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Isabel Toledo exhibit at the Museum at F.I.T. Seeing these 2 exhibits was the revitalizing elixir we needed to keep us marching forward toward our goals. We became excited, gleeful even, as we examined the awe-inducing work of Isabel Toledo. Her creativity knows no bounds. Her skills with fabric manipulation and draping and technique are just jaw-dropping. Our eyes danced with delight as we entered the exhibition space. Isabel Toledo's husband, Ruben, created whimsical watercolor illustrations that hung above our heads and we were transported to a fashion candyland. This feast was nourishment for the soul and exactly what the doctor ordered.

Peace & Fashion!

Isabel Toledo: Fashion From the Inside Out

Posted to New York Magazine by jgreen on June 16, 2009

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What If?

Last night while on my way home from the plantation, I read an article in The New York Times that caused me to reflect on my odyssey. How Do You Like Me Now? is the account of a very talented and somewhat accomplished black fashion designer (Eric Gaskins) who, after 22 years in the business, is forced to shut down his line. Last year he started writing a blog called The Emperor's Old Clothes and seems to be having more notoriety and success with that than with the quietly elegant frocks he has up until now been known for. The noticeably similar parallels in our lives are startling even if I have yet to reach the same level of success as Mr. Gaskins. After all, his dresses hung in many stores including the very posh Bergdorf Goodman here in New York City. I have yet to see my confections on the racks of those kinds of stores. And I am not sure if my online journal is as widely read as Mr. Gaskins's is either. Nonetheless, the newspaper item did give rise to a moment where I questioned the validity of my existence in fashion design. What if my success in the fashion design sector is only moderate like Mr. Gaskins? Am I prepared to humbly accept those terms and be grateful for just the opportunity to have chased my dreams? And will I be happy knowing that after so many years, if nothing else, at least I gave it the old college try? The jury is still out on that as I believe that no one pursues their goals as doggedly as I have just to get an honorable mention badge. But right now I've still got to believe that the apex of fashion success is still within my reach. Interestingly, I visited the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) this week where the work of Isabel Toledo is on display. Ms. Toledo is another astonishingly talented designer who seemed to be destined only to enjoy a moderate level of success. That is until first lady Michelle Obama chose Ms. Toledo as her designer of choice for her Inauguration day ensemble. Catapulted to the world stage by one event, Ms. Toledo's fashion star is now shining brightly. It just speaks to the possibilities and how important it is to perservere. Since anything is possible, the what if question persists.

Peace & Fashion!

A Full Circle Moment

Several years ago, about 8 or 9, I learned about a program called Principal For A Day. An initiative created by a non-profit organization named PENCIL, Principal For A Day matches New York business leaders with the principals of area high schools to experience first-hand the accomplishments of and challenges facing the city's public schools. The goal of the event is for participants to translate their one-day experiences into long-term relationships that enhance the learning environments at their schools and support student achievement. It was important for me to give back and I thought that sharing some of what I learned could benefit many other kids who were interested in pursuing careers in fashion. So I signed on. I was placed at William H. Maxwell Vocational High School in Cypress Hills, Brooklyn where I met a student named Vaughn. He was considered the star designer of the class garnering the accolades of his classmates and praise of his teachers. However, Vaughn had become a father at the early age of 16 causing some of the school administration to wonder if he would be reduced to nothing more than just another sad statistic. But he was eager to learn and sought out my guidance. So I took Vaughn under my wing. And armed with determination and talent, he has flourished. Vaughn has shown his collection during Harlem Week, a month long festival celebrating Harlem, New York. He was accepted into and has graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.). His work has been featured in local newspapers. And he has completed and won entrepreneurial competitions sponsored by former NBA star Allan Houston and music & fashion mogul Russell Simmons. And he says it began with me. This past Monday, Vaughn took a trip back to his alma mater, William H. Maxwell, and he asked me to join him. His inspiring message to the class was making your passion your career. It was a little like deja vu. But it really was a full circle moment.

Peace & Fashion!

Dressmaker, Dressmaker. . .

I started my fashion design company when I was 29 years old. And I really could have been pursuing my dream from a much younger age, but I was in serious denial initially. I have loved the beauty and glamour of fashion since I was a kid. But as I grew up I could not even begin to imagine my life as a fashion designer. I was good in art. And sure, I had taken in my pant legs as a teen so that they were not bell bottoms (this was the ‘80’s- HELLO!) and altered a couple of my daddy’s old suits from the attic to wear in high school. But a career as a fashion designer seemed beyond my reach and beyond my realm of understanding. Back then and certainly pre-Project Runway, that career path seemed foreign to me. But then as a young adult I decided to pursue my dream and attend Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) here in New York, yet I lacked the skills and the confidence to finish my first sewing class. My professor was a crotchety, jaded old witch who put us on blast and announced early on in the semester that many of us would not become the great American fashion designers we had envisioned. Was it her way of weeding out the wannabes from the want-it-badly-enough? I am not sure, but soon thereafter I dropped out packing up my sewing gear, pencils, markers, and sketch pads and tucking it away in the closet for a couple years until I got the courage to try and prove myself. To this day, I cannot drape, sew well, or make a pattern. And I even auditioned for Project Runway’s first season before anyone knew that it was essential to the show’s premise to possess the technical skills. But I do not let my handicap prevent me from pushing on through. I just work with tailors and seamstresses who got game.

Today, I purchased the denim for my cocktail dresses that will hopefully be in stores in spring 2010. I am beyond elated! Every single step in the process is a milestone for me! I have been working with someone really closely for the last 5 years or so who I have grown to respect and love that can also sew her ass off. Unfortunately, her path is leading her away from fashion and so I must find someone else who can help me realize my vision. But I still do not look at this development as a reason to try to learn to sew. The hours it takes to create a pattern and construct the garment are hours I simply cannot spare. But I will press on. After all, my dream depends on it.

Peace & Fashion!