The Bridge Is Out

Yesterday I noticed that there is a serious divide going on in fashion.  I think I've always known it, but it became more evident as my day progressed.  Plus size is still fashion's ignored stepchild.  Despite the 62% of women who are a size 14 and above, it seems like the chasm may be permanent.  My fashion mogul friend and founder of Full-Figured Fashion Week, Gwen DeVoe, pretty much tried to convince me while we were laughing and chatting over cocktails a few weeks ago. "Wilbur, the big boys still have not invited me to the table," she said explaining that high fashion is an exclusive club reserved for the fabulously skinny.  Sporting my rose-colored glasses, I really didn't want to believe her.  After all, I have received so much attention for my creative efforts concerning the curvy woman.  Just to name a few recent gains by the curvy community - -  during New York Fashion Week this past September, One Stop Plus staged the first runway show dedicated solely to contemporary fashions for the curvy woman.  Clingy and sexy dress designer, Monif C. recently celebrated her fifth year in business.  And big girls continue to make "special" appearances in mainstream magazines.  But so many people don't want to embrace the curvy.  A couple of weeks ago when I was in Re/dress, the Brooklyn-based destination emporium for all things vintage for the curvy woman, I met a lovely young lady named Jessica.  Jessica and I fell into a deep conversation like we'd been forever friends when she confessed to me that she had recently gone down to a size 14 from a size 24.  And she shared something with me that has stayed on my mind since.  Jessica thinks clothing manufacturers do not put a lot of effort or style into plus fashions because most women consider the weight temporary and are always striving to become a more socially acceptable size 6 or 8.  Hello Oprah!  I immediately disagreed with her because if that is the case then my career choice is a big mistake.  But maybe there is a little truth to it?  Yesterday afternoon I met with the buyer at Bloomingdale's.  I felt empowered by the many women whom I have met online and in person who have asked me when and where they'll be able to buy my dresses.  So I carefully pulled out each of my confections explaining how we could accommodate her customer by adding sleeves or changing colors and fabrication.  I explained to her that the customer wants to celebrate her curves and is looking for pieces that caress her curves, not tent-like frocks that do nothing for her shape.  "She wants more fashion," I added.  I informed her that I have over 500 followers on facebook.  I write a blog that goes out to about 250 readers.  And we maintain a website as well. When she calculated the retail price of one of my dresses, she thought it was a bit pricey for the Bloomingdale's customer.  I assured her that the Bloomingdale's customer is not resistant to price if she is getting value and fashion.  She told me that she'd never seen a line like mine before - a statement I found a little ambiguous to be sure. When I left that meeting, the buyer said that she was unwilling to change the status quo and add a new designer to her mix of vendors for now.  I was disappointed as I walked to Bloomingdale's to inform the sales team who had been so supportive over the last couple of months.  As I rode the escalator up to the 3rd floor, I saw a lot of fashion happening in other departments that were bustling.  In the women's department it was quiet and overflowing with a lot of the same clothes by the same vendors like Jones New York that are found in other stores such as Lord & Taylor and Macy's.  So although I am on the front lines talking to the customer doing my best to accommodate her fashion and style needs, she's losing in the long run. The message that is being conveyed is that because she's bigger, her access to more fashionable items should and will be limited.

Later in the evening, I had the opportunity to attend the book signing of WWD@100 at Bergdorf Goodman.  Populated by fashion industry superstars, my model Dee Dee and I along with Ashanti were a breath of plus size freshness.  And we did get snapped by one of the evening's photographers.  But Dee Dee commented that the atmosphere was very "clique-ish".  I am not sure how to infiltrate the fashion cognoscenti's sphere of fabulousness, but I am looking to build a bridge so that plus-size fashion is no longer an oxymoron.

Peace & Fashion!

Fashion in the 'Hood

Early this morning, on my way to the plantation, I walked through the garment district. Nothing is open before 8 o'clock, but workers entering from stage left and stage right were starting to take their designated places for today's drama that would soon begin to unfold. It was almost serene. And this is such a stark departure from the kinetic energy and hustle-as-if-your-life-depended-on-it attitude that pervades between 9 a.m. and 7 p.m. As I hurried quickly to my destination, I gladly welcomed the quiet moment. But I could feel the excitement and the intensity of the neighborhood bubbling beneath the surface preparing for both established and emerging designers to make their appearances center stage as they begin their daily grind.

Earlier this week, I found myself searching the maze-like grid of city blocks between 36th and 40th streets stretching from 6th avenue to 8th avenue for stores that sell wood buttons. Since I am creating 8 handbags which will accessorize my Spring 2011 looks, I wanted to apply earthy elements like wood, leather, metal, and stone giving them that nomadic, been-around-the-world feel. I needed 80 buttons to compliment one bag's ethnic pattern and it was a task that could only be completed in fashion's epicenter. After striking out at several spots that either didn't have the style of button that I was looking for or didn't have enough of a particular style, I finally settled on a rough hewn look that I discovered at M & J Trimming. And although I consider them the Bergdorf Goodman of the trim world, their selection is unsurpassed. I am very fortunate and extremely lucky to live in a city that fosters the kind of dreams that I possess. Armed with my imagination and a few bucks, I am only a subway ride or a short walk away from finding the necessary tools and hiring the most skilled artisans to make the visions in my head come to life.

Peace & Fashion!

The Raw Side of Fashion

Fashion really is all smoke and mirrors. What is presented to the public is an airbrushed image of fashion. Behind the scenes before all the imperfections are erased, it can sometimes get ugly and gritty. And that is a far cry from the glamour of the catwalk and ritziness of tony emporiums like Bergdorf Goodman and Barney's New York. Admittedly, I was drawn to fashion because of its beauty. And I am still entranced by its heady mix of creativity, personality, and gloss.

This Saturday past was a culmination of several months of hard work, sacrifice, sweat, and worry. But when I saw the raw photos from our shoot before the sheen of photoshop had made them slick & magazine-ready, I felt more grateful for having the opportunities to live my dream. Because despite the imperfections and the bumps, I'm doing it. Almost twelve years ago, my cousin, Leroy, urged me to, "Just Do It!" I was making excuses afraid that I didn't have the chops (or the skills) to cut it in fashion. And I am still not sure if I do. But I have found something that makes my heart race and energizes and excites me. So I think I am pretty lucky. And that is the truth.

Today we launched the revamped company site, so check out skwilbur.com. I think our new web designer (who also happens to be a really talented photographer), Jeffrey French, did a remarkable job. And a select group of dresses from the spring collection are now being carried at Rhinoceros in Atlanta. So if you are down in the dirrty, dirrty check out the store. There is still more work to be done so I am just going to continue living my dream. No matter how raw it gets.

Peace & Fashion!

EXPERIENCE: Fashion's Night Out

Fashion's Night Out was a huge success judging from the throngs of fashionistas who poured out onto the New York City streets by the hundreds with yours truly among them. I started my party off at 5:15 p.m. when I arrived at Macy's Herald Square to purchase Michael Kors' intoxicating new women's fragrance, Very Hollywood. With my purchase, I received a special edition tote bag and the chance to have my photo taken with the fashion designer and Project Runway judge. And it was the perfect gift for my mother. I'd already invited my diva friend, Josette, to join me for the night's festivities and she met me while I was waiting for the man of the hour to arrive.
And, oh, what an arrival it was. Madness ensued as the CEO of Macy's, Terry Lundgren, introduced Michael Kors and his very special guest, Debra Messing. For those of you who don't recognize the name, it's Grace from Will & Grace fame. Flashbulbs popped and the mostly fragrance counter crowd squeezed in a little closer to catch a glimpse of the fashionable twosome. And as I assumed my perch between MK and DM, the crowd of onlookers went wild. Well, at least in my dreams they did. Debra was so lovely and personable and Michael was everything I thought he would be.
As soon as I collected my photo, Josette and I headed up to Bergdorf Goodman. Unfortunately, we were met outside by a mob of fashion savvy revelers about 12 deep who were also trying to get into the posh fashion emporium. Perhaps they had heard about the celebrity bartenders, Ashley & Mary-Kate? But my diva friend and I were not about to wait on another line, so we just eased on down Fifth Avenue until we got to the Salvatore Ferragamo store where the grooving music and the lively crowd beckoned to us. When the clipboard lady asked us if we had RSVP'd, I was caught off guard. Wasn't this supposed to be an open celebration for all?

I wanted to tell her to just move outta my way! But once I told her we would be shopping, she did anyway. I headed straight to the bar and ordered a glass of Veuve Cliquot champagne for my guest and me. As we sat among the shoe offerings for the well shod with lots of money to spend, we bounced to the sounds of vintage Jackson 5 songs. Oh, how I miss Michael! Not one to let grass grow under my feet it was off to our next location - Saks Fifth Avenue. I'd read that Mr. Sexy Back himself, Justin Timberlake, would be making an appearance.
But before we got very far, we stopped in Versace where I posed with model-of-the-moment Chanel Iman. Such a sweetie, she asked if she could first be photographed with her boyfriend before she and I were framed together. Never the jealous type, of course I agreed. And besides she's not even drinking age, yet! After inching a few yards in the elbow-rubbing crowd, I spotted a live mannequin posed on a perch just beneath one of the store's crystal chandeliers. She looked so unreal that it was hard to believe that she wasn't an escapee from Madame Tussaud's in Times Square.

After playing shutterbug, Josette and I hit the streets once more until we finally found ourselves in front of Saks' massive doorway. By this time, however, we had missed the Justin Timberlake madness. But the music was still throbbing as we held court with my favorite fragrance specialist, Jayson at the Thierry Mugler counter. After exchanging pleasantries (and collecting a little swag), we headed up to the 8th Floor, the ladies shoe salon. And between the Christian Louboutins and the Roger Vivier pumps, I came face-to-face with Pamela M. You may remember her from my Essence Magazine story. Ever the fake, she smiled broadly and asked how I was doing as she bussed me on the cheek. Even Josette remarked about her mock friendly tone. After perusing the fierce shoes, it was time to end the evening. After all, it was back to reality (and the plantation) the next morning. But as I parted ways with my diva friend and got a ride with my designated driver, M.T.A., I gazed at the photos on my camera screen and thought about all the fun I had for Fashion's Night Out.

Peace & Fashion!

What If?

Last night while on my way home from the plantation, I read an article in The New York Times that caused me to reflect on my odyssey. How Do You Like Me Now? is the account of a very talented and somewhat accomplished black fashion designer (Eric Gaskins) who, after 22 years in the business, is forced to shut down his line. Last year he started writing a blog called The Emperor's Old Clothes and seems to be having more notoriety and success with that than with the quietly elegant frocks he has up until now been known for. The noticeably similar parallels in our lives are startling even if I have yet to reach the same level of success as Mr. Gaskins. After all, his dresses hung in many stores including the very posh Bergdorf Goodman here in New York City. I have yet to see my confections on the racks of those kinds of stores. And I am not sure if my online journal is as widely read as Mr. Gaskins's is either. Nonetheless, the newspaper item did give rise to a moment where I questioned the validity of my existence in fashion design. What if my success in the fashion design sector is only moderate like Mr. Gaskins? Am I prepared to humbly accept those terms and be grateful for just the opportunity to have chased my dreams? And will I be happy knowing that after so many years, if nothing else, at least I gave it the old college try? The jury is still out on that as I believe that no one pursues their goals as doggedly as I have just to get an honorable mention badge. But right now I've still got to believe that the apex of fashion success is still within my reach. Interestingly, I visited the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) this week where the work of Isabel Toledo is on display. Ms. Toledo is another astonishingly talented designer who seemed to be destined only to enjoy a moderate level of success. That is until first lady Michelle Obama chose Ms. Toledo as her designer of choice for her Inauguration day ensemble. Catapulted to the world stage by one event, Ms. Toledo's fashion star is now shining brightly. It just speaks to the possibilities and how important it is to perservere. Since anything is possible, the what if question persists.

Peace & Fashion!

Renewing My Vows

After several years, marriages are often subjected to a little wear and tear. And it is necessary for you and your mate to engage in activities that rejuvenate and strengthen the bond. Maybe it's a good idea to have a date night and hire a babysitter to watch the kids while you go out like you used to when you were "courting"? Or maybe plan a weekend getaway to that cozy little bed and breakfast that was recently reviewed in your local newspaper? Yesterday I had my date with fashion. And I am happy to say that I am re-committed to her. Long before fashion design had roped me into this matrimonial roller coaster, I would take a weekly jaunt to Bergdorf Goodman, the very tony Fifth Avenue shopping emporium in Manhattan. There I would blissfully caress the garments that lined the clothing racks inspecting the finishes and the fabrications of each piece. I found myself awestruck by the boundless creativity of each designer's confection. I believe those moments were as close to heaven as I could be. When I decided to commit to a career in fashion design those weekly outings stopped. Bombarded with problems that quickly needed to be solved, I no longer had the time nor the inclination to visit Bergdorfs. Yesterday standing in front of the large windows of the store's facade, I was whisked away to another time as I gazed upon a slinky jersey gown designed by CD Greene. I was beckoned to step inside and get a closer look. And as I wandered through the evening gown salon on the 4th Floor, I remembered why I am married to fashion. Quite simply, I love it. And sometimes you've got to plan that date night to be reminded that renewing your vows and reconnecting is absolutely necessary for a long-term relationship.

Peace & Fashion!