It's A Curvy Girl's World. . .this week

On this Sunday past, The NY Daily News published an article on the phenomenon that is Full-Figured Fashion Week.  (You can check out the story by clicking on the accompanying link - http://nydn.us/kfG1QO.)  It seems that for a few days, at least, the playing field for women of all sizes is level.  I've created fashions for the young contemporary woman, working women, and women of a certain age.  In the end, all women really want is to look good and feel like they matter.



Full-Figured Models wearing SK WiLBUR



I remember last year when my business partners and I launched the collection of dresses for the plus size woman.  My public relations friend, Simona Georgescu, contacted a fashion blogger who refused to attend.  Making no bones about her opinion she stated,  "Fat girls are gross and there is no such thing as plus-size fashion."  When the exchange was relayed to me, all I could do was shake my head and call her "a HOT mess".



I do believe that there is a point where carrying around too much weight can be unhealthy. But being too skinny is not good for you either.  And subjecting one's body to the stress of diet fads is just as bad.  We all should celebrate the woman who is a size 4 as well as the woman who is a size 14.  Because that is what makes us uniquely beautiful.

Peace & Fashion!

Meeting with my Peers

Writer, Daryl Sturgis

On last Wednesday, I met an old friend for lunch.  It seemed like forever since we'd seen each other, but once we started  chatting the time gap quickly closed.  Daryl (that's his name) was part of the life I shared with my ex-.  For some reason, a lot of the people from my past life are missing from my current existence.  I am not sure how that happens; it just does.  Anyway, Daryl and I were reminiscing about old times and catching up on the new stuff.  He is now a self-published author and blogger.  His writing style blows me away and I love his voice.  I haven't read his book yet, but I am going to have to get a copy to read in my spare time.  For those of you who cannot  commit to the time investment necessary for reading a book, follow his blog at http://darylsturgis.blogspot.com. It's thought provoking and insightful.  And it gives me the kind of motivation I need to finish my memoir.

Puttin' On The Ritz - Wilbur's Design

Last Thursday I met with my friend Brandon Atherley, stylist to the stars, to go over details for the construction of the look I've designed for the legendary entertainer/actress/singer.  The time is winding down before she takes the stage for her triumphant return to the spotlight and we needed to fine tune the details so that she looks nothing less that SMASHING.  Tomorrow we will begin to fit the garment on her body.  She's been such a pleasure over the phone and via email that I imagine our face-to-face meet-up will be like that of two old friends who haven't seen each other in a very long time.  I'm so psyched!

After Mr. B, as I often refer to him, and I finished with the minutiae of our collaboration we found ourselves discussing, oddly enough, the world of fashion.  I am sure the topic comes as no surprise, but what did surprise me is that we have very similar opinions where the fashion glitterati are concerned.  We are both attracted to the glamour and fabulousness of a world that includes Donatella Versace and Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney.  But in the midst of such fashion royalty, the drawbacks of existing in that kind of universe are quite apparent.  Smoke & mirrors are only a part of the issue.  This world has a veneer of fakeness and also seems to thrive on bitterness.  Brandon has attended collections in Europe and I've attended some here in NYC and we've both observed how unpretty fashion can be.  So while we both sometimes wish to be mentioned in the company of such esteemed talent, we understand that being a part of that world means selling a piece of our respective souls to the devil.  And neither one of us are ready to make that deal. . .yet.

Peace & Fashion!

Fashion in the 'Hood

Early this morning, on my way to the plantation, I walked through the garment district. Nothing is open before 8 o'clock, but workers entering from stage left and stage right were starting to take their designated places for today's drama that would soon begin to unfold. It was almost serene. And this is such a stark departure from the kinetic energy and hustle-as-if-your-life-depended-on-it attitude that pervades between 9 a.m. and 7 p.m. As I hurried quickly to my destination, I gladly welcomed the quiet moment. But I could feel the excitement and the intensity of the neighborhood bubbling beneath the surface preparing for both established and emerging designers to make their appearances center stage as they begin their daily grind.

Earlier this week, I found myself searching the maze-like grid of city blocks between 36th and 40th streets stretching from 6th avenue to 8th avenue for stores that sell wood buttons. Since I am creating 8 handbags which will accessorize my Spring 2011 looks, I wanted to apply earthy elements like wood, leather, metal, and stone giving them that nomadic, been-around-the-world feel. I needed 80 buttons to compliment one bag's ethnic pattern and it was a task that could only be completed in fashion's epicenter. After striking out at several spots that either didn't have the style of button that I was looking for or didn't have enough of a particular style, I finally settled on a rough hewn look that I discovered at M & J Trimming. And although I consider them the Bergdorf Goodman of the trim world, their selection is unsurpassed. I am very fortunate and extremely lucky to live in a city that fosters the kind of dreams that I possess. Armed with my imagination and a few bucks, I am only a subway ride or a short walk away from finding the necessary tools and hiring the most skilled artisans to make the visions in my head come to life.

Peace & Fashion!

Take Two and Call Me In The Morning

I am weary. I have not had time to notice that summer's end is fast approaching because my spirit and my mind and most of my energy is so focused on the development and evolution of Wilbur, my new line of cocktail dresses. How are we going to find the perfect sales professional before it's too late? It has to be someone who can fully grasp our aesthetic and commit wholly to our vision of bringing a fresh approach to cocktail dressing? Patience is a virtue, but it is truly overrated.

Earlier this week my friend Donelle referred a mutual acquaintance to me for the position. "Why not ask her? Although her background is merchandise buying for young contemporary and plus sizes, she's been out of work for nearly a year. It's worth a try." It seemed an intelligent and knowing recommendation. So I went for the gusto. But in the back of my mind, I didn't think it would work out. Lisa F. has never been supportive when I've reached out to her in the past. And in fact, she's ignored my requests when I would ask for potential introductions to people that she knew. Not returning phone calls in a timely manner is her standard approach to me. So when she did it this time, it really came as no surprise. Yet, I still find it tired and rude. Oh well! On to the next.

Today I received an email from the manager of the furniture store that had met with me last week. He was interested in organizing a cross-promotional event at the space that would feature emerging fashion designers and visual artists. But the company heads decided to take a different approach. Because they want to maximize press coverage, they have decided to stage a runway presentation featuring already established high-end designers. Although I completely understand their decision, it still stinks. Established designers already have plenty of clout in the marketplace. It's us little guys that could really benefit from this kind of exposure. Could someone throw me a bone please?! Apparently the event planner that the manager was originally working with was scrapped and replaced with a fashion public relations firm who is connected to A-list apparel companies. These A-list apparel companies are even getting paid to participate. From the first meeting, it was made clear to me and the other potential participants that we would have to pay for our own models, make-up artists, and hairstylists out of pocket. Although the A-list designers have the financing to pay for their own, us emerging designers who barely have two pennies to rub together have to scrape together our coins to make it happen. How ironic.

Today I took a break from the grind and took Vaughn, the young man I mentor, to see the Model As Muse exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Isabel Toledo exhibit at the Museum at F.I.T. Seeing these 2 exhibits was the revitalizing elixir we needed to keep us marching forward toward our goals. We became excited, gleeful even, as we examined the awe-inducing work of Isabel Toledo. Her creativity knows no bounds. Her skills with fabric manipulation and draping and technique are just jaw-dropping. Our eyes danced with delight as we entered the exhibition space. Isabel Toledo's husband, Ruben, created whimsical watercolor illustrations that hung above our heads and we were transported to a fashion candyland. This feast was nourishment for the soul and exactly what the doctor ordered.

Peace & Fashion!

Isabel Toledo: Fashion From the Inside Out

Posted to New York Magazine by jgreen on June 16, 2009

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What's That About?!

Remember when Jonathan Franzen, the author of The Corrections, made disparaging remarks about Oprah Winfrey's literary taste? Somehow he felt that Oprah's choosing of his novel for her book club would commercialize his appeal and devalue his elitist leanings. According to the October 29, 2001 edition of The New York Times, Mr. Franzen suggested "that appearing on her show was out of keeping with his place in ''the high-art literary tradition'' and might turn off some readers." Subsequently, Ms. Oprah quickly rescinded her invitation for him to be a guest on her hit daytime television talk show. Well, I recently had a similar Oprah-ish moment. No, she did not call me to do a televised runway presentation, but if ever asked I would certainly jump at the chance.

Over a year ago I spotted the cutest accessory on the pages of New York and Teen Vogue magazines. It is a flower pin, but very unique. Since I am working on a new collection of denim cocktail dresses (see breaking news from the Diva-at-Large), I imagined this flower pin to be the perfect embellishment for one of my designs. I was so excited to contact the designer and immediately went rummaging through my back issues of Teen Vogue. Once I spotted it, I promptly googled her name and found her website. I discovered that Kate C. is wonderfully creative. In addition to the flower pins, she designs necklaces, bracelets, and costumes as well. She is awesomely talented. I was so psyched that I typed her an email which read like this:

Hello Kate!

My name is Wilbur. I am a fashion designer based in New York. I fell in love with your pins when I saw them last year in Teen Vogue and New York magazines. I am designing a one shouldered denim cocktail dress and immediately thought that your creations would be a lovely touch. I checked out your website, and, unfortunately, you don't offer any in the shade of blue that I would need. Would you consider doing 3 in 2 sizes to adorn my sample? Please let me know. My contact info is listed below. Thank you in advance for your time and consideration.

I anxiously awaited her reply, but by 3 the next afternoon I had heard nothing. Maybe she had not received my email. So I called her. I was thrilled when Kate C. answered the phone. I introduced myself and relayed the story of how I found her and explained how great it would be to collaborate on this project. After all, Murakami worked with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton on handbags and they had a best seller! The possibilities for me and Kate C. were endless. But I soon learned that she was less than thrilled or impressed with my offer. In fact, she informed me that she had indeed received my email, but was still mulling it over. She confessed that since the flower pins were all handmade she was overwhelmed by the idea of mass production. Silly girl, once you get orders there are factories that can manufacture in large quantities! She continued, "I checked out your website, but there is nothing that resembles a cocktail dress." After I told her that this was a new endeavor, a launch in fact, she asked me to email her images. And I obliged. But my bubble had burst. Her cool reception caused me to recoil. I am no longer interested in working with Kate C. I will employ somebody else who is interested in working with me to create that perfect accessory. I am not sure if she was having a Jonathan Franzen moment or if she was scared of the potential income that this could bring her. All I want to know is, "What's that about?!"

Peace & Fashion!