How You Like Her Now?

Jennifer Hudson is on the cover of the latest issue of Essence magazine.  In fact, as of late, it has been difficult to overlook the Golden Globe, Screen Actors Guild, and Academy Award winning actress and Grammy Award winning singer since she became the latest celebrity spokesperson for Weight Watchers.  J-Hud's svelte new figure is featured prominently in print ads and can be seen gracing billboards all over New York City. Her commercials for the weight loss brand are in heavy rotation on network television and last month she discussed her dramatic weight loss (80 lbs.!) during an appearance on The Oprah Winfrey Show.  But there is something that I find disturbing about all this attention being paid to her now size 6 frame.

I remember first catching a glimpse of Jennifer on American Idol.  I thought she was beautiful and talented.  Unabashed by her robust figure, when she performed she commanded the attention of her audience.  And she seemed to own her killer curves.  She was dismissed from the competition too soon, in my opinion, but shortly thereafter she resurfaced as a movie star winning acclaim for her role as Effie White in the film "Dreamgirls".  Each time she graced the red carpet, people took note that she was a beautiful, curvy girl who was stylish, graceful, and gave a lot of fashion fabulosity.

But now it appears that Jennifer has become just another pawn in the celebrity game who has bought into Hollywood's conventional definition of beauty.  It was revealed that she needed to shed weight in order to portray Winnie Mandela in a yet-to-be released film.  Since she gained weight and won an Oscar, I thought losing weight might bring her the same acclaim.  But then she continued with the program, her waist whittled down several inches, the evidence of its former girth only believable because of old photos circulating the Internet.  While no one wants to be considered fat, I do feel that the celebration of Jennifer's transformation is a slap in the face of every curvy woman who struggles with self-esteem and image issues.  We hold women, in particular, to a higher standard without considering the ramifications of all our judgements. Don't get me wrong, I applaud Jennifer's dedication to her weight loss program and exercise regimen, but she was just as lovely when she was a size 16.  My wish is that we are more accepting of ourselves and others who may look less-than-perfect from the outside.  Because beauty flows from within, no matter what the scale says.

Peace & Fashion!

AdDRESSing Fashion



Spring 2012 Preview



I am doing what I do, as my 5-year old nephew says, by diligently working on the sketches of the collection for Spring 2012.  I know it seems really far away, but time is swiftly moving.  And this coming season I need to be ready.



My nephew NILE



I've named this collection Out Of The Dark because it reflects triumph over disappointment.  It's about my emergence from my blue period and how I am beginning to see the light of promise.  The silhouettes are crisp, yet easy and the colors (onyx, cocoa, dove grey, cream, and tomato) are fairly subdued.  There's not a whole lot of embellishment, but an interesting mix of textures and fabrics.

I am standing on the universe's promises that I will obtain all that I need to translate this collection from paper to reality and that the stores will finally be ready to embrace my aesthetic.  That is my prayer and that is what gives me the vitality and the spirit to press on.  So stay tuned. . .

Peace & Fashion!

An Offer I Can Refuse

On this Sunday past, I received an email from A.J., a fashion blogger and writer. She was interested in featuring pieces from my spring collection in a story for an online magazine called Liberating Style. I was flattered. I perused her blog and the webzine to make sure it was a quality publication that I would want to be associated with. It was well done. And besides, I thought it would also increase my audience. So I responded. I needed to know readership and hits and what she wanted from me. She requested the look book and provided the site's stats that I asked for. I promptly emailed the look book to her. When she wrote back she explained that the editors had scrapped the idea of the story for Liberating Style and told me that they would run photos from the look book with style descriptions. But she did offer me a consolation prize of being featured on another site she wrote for. Although I was disappointed, I thought, "Why not?!" And after speaking to Ashanti, I was convinced. A.J. told me that all she needed now were a couple of my samples. After all, they could not recommend a designer without first seeing the workmanship and construction of the garments. In closing, she said that they had no policy with regards to returning the samples. I then explained to her in the following email that although they had no policy with returning samples, the way it was going to work was that we would charge her for the shipping & handling and the samples and once she returns them in pristine condition, we would be able to credit her for the samples. She then wrote back saying that since her company does not require payment for featuring designs like print magazines do, they then require that they get to keep all samples at no charge. She also implied that because they have a wide audience I should be fine with giving my dresses away for free. I was really quite outdone by her boldness and obvious entitlement and I had to spell things out for her. Below is my final response.

I am well aware of the influence of webzines as well as print media as I have been featured many times in both mediums. And because of my vast experience over the last 11 years in the fashion business, I am a little troubled by your policy. Perhaps I should explain that it takes a substantial amount of capital and hard work to bring my designs to life. A great deal of detail goes into the selection of fabrics, trim, and construction and I am not in the practice of giving my gifts away for free. When you approached me first about the feature in Liberating Style I was very flattered indeed, as I did state this in my reply. But then you told me that you would only be using the images I sent you with detailed descriptions of each style and not featuring me in an editorial capacity as you first had stipulated. Although I was a little disappointed, I assumed you did not find my pieces edgy enough for editorial. And you did offer to write a piece about me on the Models & Moguls site as somewhat of a consolation. And now it seems that you want me to send you my dresses for free? What is the guarantee that you will even write something favorable about me once you receive them? Did all the designers that you feature on the site, such as Prabal Gurung, send you samples from their lines for you to keep? Something sounds fishy with this arrangement. So, unfortunately, I am going to have to decline your offer. But when I show during NY Fashion Week in September, I'd love for you to come as my guest. You will then get a bird's eye view of how well the dresses are constructed and that they also fit to a t.

Selling my soul to the devil was never part of my business plan when I started on this career path. And this devil wasn't even camouflaged in an A-list publication like Vogue. I have sacrificed way too much to get to this point. And I need to honor my dream and all the hard work and money I've put into it. Not give it away.

Peace & Fashion!

My Issue With September

On Sunday, after church service and immediately following a quick stop at Pathmark, I decided to take a trip to the multiplex and check out The September Issue, the new "Anna Wintour" documentary. Actually, the film is not so much about the famed editor-in-chief as it is an examination of the detailed steps necessary to assemble the largest issue of Vogue magazine. Filled with an eclectic cast of eccentric characters, we witness the drama unfold as the overwhelmingly talented Grace Coddington, a visionary and the magazine's creative director, locks horns with Ms. Wintour over content. We are also invited to watch the imposing, yet affable Andre Leon Talley, Vogue's editor-at-large, deliver over-the-top and amusing sound bites wearing equally over-the-top and amusing ensembles. And then there is the scrutiny and dissection of Sienna Miller, the actress and the issue's cover girl. Her hair is a mess and her teeth need to be photoshopped. In fashion periodicals, everyone is perfect because flaws are erased. If only I could, with the swipe of a key stroke, get rid of some of my physical shortcomings before leaving the house each morning. But back to reality. Perhaps what I found most fascinating about the film is that the power that Ms. Wintour wields in the fashion industry is very real. Retail titans and accomplished designers around the globe seek the approval of the fashion star who is notorious for her icy disposition. And she is often asked by super brands, like Gap, to recommend designers for their company's top creative positions. I found that aspect of the movie a little depressing and daunting as I have no relationship with Anna Wintour. In fact, I am not even on her radar. How am I supposed to advance in an industry so crowded with fashion starlets in the making? Either I will or I won't, but, in all reality, the odds are stacked against me. Only time will tell.

As a movie, I found The September Issue to be a little plodding. It was not compelling enough to recommend to anyone not in the fashion industry. For a breezier and more interesting story, check out Valentino: The Last Emperor.

Peace & Fashion!

Shop 'Til You Drop!

It's time to party! This Thursday, September 10, from 6 p.m. until 11 p.m., the entire city is playing host to it's own block party. And we're all invited! This includes Queens, too! (All my peeps from Queens throw your hands up!) Fashion's Night Out is a global initiative being implemented to revive the heartbeat of the now beleaguered retail beast. Several stores, uptown - downtown - and across town, will feature appearances by celebrities, designers, and models. There will also be music and cocktails. I am going to be scouting locations for the best mojito! Don't worry, I've got a designated driver and his initials are M.T.A. No DUI drama from the BlackFashionDude. A specially designed t-shirt will be sold for $30 at all participating stores with profits going to the National September 11 Memorial & Museum. Fashion with a purpose. What a novel idea! I think I may check out Michael Kors at Macy's Herald Square. Maybe I'll share a mojito with him. He's such a character on Project Runway. And we can exchange double entendres and witty banter. Hey, you never know! In my world, everyone is my friend. I'll be starting my trek on the upper east side and easing my way downtown. So if you see me on the street, just holla and join the parade! I'll be the one in full fashionista mode.

Peace & Fashion!

A New Diva on the Horizon

Two days ago I spoke with Elisa DeCarlo, a fellow blogger whose over-the-top alter ego goes by the name of The Mad Fashionista. Elisa is a writer, actress, and storyteller who created The Mad Fashionista as a way to match wits with the elitist androids who are at the top of the fashion food chain. Her curvy, full figure and outsize personality are the antithesis of many editors-in-chief of high fashion glossies. Anna Wintour @ Vogue eat your heart out!

I met Elisa, or was it The Mad Fashionista, at a charity event last February when she expressed her delight with the denim gown my sister, a curvy girl herself, was wearing. When she discovered that I was the creative mastermind behind the elegant frock, she wanted to know more. Unfortunately, Ashanti & I were swept up in the pop of flashbulbs and the fizz of fabulousness during the entire evening so we really did not get a chance to chat further. But after I started journaling about my odyssey, The Mad Fashionista reached out to me and offered words of encouragement and pointers about maintaining a blog. I thought, "How wonderful for this diva to be so considerate and giving." I knew then that The Mad Fashionista and I would forge a wonderful friendship. And then I discovered that although she adheres to the fringes of fashion, she's also been featured in The New York Times Styles Section. This campy character that Elisa DeCarlo has created has a lot to say. Quirky, yet fabulous and elegantly trashy, I will again come face-to-face with Elisa and her alter ego when we meet on Monday. So while I wait for Oprah and Michelle O. to get back to me, I am going to have my hands full working with Elisa by adding a little more sophistication to The Mad Fashionista's wardrobe. And who knows what opportunities lie ahead.

Peace & Fashion!

Take Two and Call Me In The Morning

I am weary. I have not had time to notice that summer's end is fast approaching because my spirit and my mind and most of my energy is so focused on the development and evolution of Wilbur, my new line of cocktail dresses. How are we going to find the perfect sales professional before it's too late? It has to be someone who can fully grasp our aesthetic and commit wholly to our vision of bringing a fresh approach to cocktail dressing? Patience is a virtue, but it is truly overrated.

Earlier this week my friend Donelle referred a mutual acquaintance to me for the position. "Why not ask her? Although her background is merchandise buying for young contemporary and plus sizes, she's been out of work for nearly a year. It's worth a try." It seemed an intelligent and knowing recommendation. So I went for the gusto. But in the back of my mind, I didn't think it would work out. Lisa F. has never been supportive when I've reached out to her in the past. And in fact, she's ignored my requests when I would ask for potential introductions to people that she knew. Not returning phone calls in a timely manner is her standard approach to me. So when she did it this time, it really came as no surprise. Yet, I still find it tired and rude. Oh well! On to the next.

Today I received an email from the manager of the furniture store that had met with me last week. He was interested in organizing a cross-promotional event at the space that would feature emerging fashion designers and visual artists. But the company heads decided to take a different approach. Because they want to maximize press coverage, they have decided to stage a runway presentation featuring already established high-end designers. Although I completely understand their decision, it still stinks. Established designers already have plenty of clout in the marketplace. It's us little guys that could really benefit from this kind of exposure. Could someone throw me a bone please?! Apparently the event planner that the manager was originally working with was scrapped and replaced with a fashion public relations firm who is connected to A-list apparel companies. These A-list apparel companies are even getting paid to participate. From the first meeting, it was made clear to me and the other potential participants that we would have to pay for our own models, make-up artists, and hairstylists out of pocket. Although the A-list designers have the financing to pay for their own, us emerging designers who barely have two pennies to rub together have to scrape together our coins to make it happen. How ironic.

Today I took a break from the grind and took Vaughn, the young man I mentor, to see the Model As Muse exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Isabel Toledo exhibit at the Museum at F.I.T. Seeing these 2 exhibits was the revitalizing elixir we needed to keep us marching forward toward our goals. We became excited, gleeful even, as we examined the awe-inducing work of Isabel Toledo. Her creativity knows no bounds. Her skills with fabric manipulation and draping and technique are just jaw-dropping. Our eyes danced with delight as we entered the exhibition space. Isabel Toledo's husband, Ruben, created whimsical watercolor illustrations that hung above our heads and we were transported to a fashion candyland. This feast was nourishment for the soul and exactly what the doctor ordered.

Peace & Fashion!

Isabel Toledo: Fashion From the Inside Out

Posted to New York Magazine by jgreen on June 16, 2009

Click to Play View Details

Vogue

Last week the Vogue magazine team descended on my part time job for a fashion photo shoot. And I had front row seating to view it all. Exciting! I have arranged and produced my own shoots for my designs, but my budget is nothing compared to Vogue's. Present was Richard, the shoot's producer. I met him before anyone else from the Vogue team. And he kept us employees apprised of how everything would unfold. Then I met the prop stylist, Rick, who made sure that all the furniture and, well, props were satisfactory for the photos. Rick worked with the very adorable Taylor, who closely resembled the actor Jason Lewis. Both Rick and Taylor were really quite lovely. And they entered loaded up with bouquets and bouquets of beautiful, fresh cut blossoms in a melange of vibrant colors - for the shoot. Next, I met the fashion editor for the shoot, Elissa Santisi, as she led renowned photographer, Terry Richardson and his posse of assistants around the office to discuss angles, locations, and props before flashbulbs began to pop. All of you, I am sure, have seen the work of Mr. Richardson as he has turned his lens on so many brands including Belvedere vodka, Jimmy Choo shoes, and Tom Ford eyewear. So when he introduced himself to me, naturally I quickly replied that I already knew who he was. My familiarity seemed to catch him by surprise. To top off the day, Lily Donaldson, one of the fiercest mannequins of today, made her dramatic entrance surrounded by hair, makeup, the accessories editor, and the guard there to make sure that no one try to slip away with any of the expensive baubles selected for the shoot. Lily was tall and thin and breathtaking and my eyes followed her as she glided to the the designated room for the shoot towering over the fashion wizards responsible for her camera-ready transformation. Unfortunately, I was abruptly awakened from my reverie and thrust back to reality. I had to rush off for my 2 o'clock appointment in downtown Brooklyn to meet my new dressmaker. But I am waiting with bated breath for the July issue to hit the newsstands. Because it will take me back to the day that I was almost in Vogue.

Peace & Fashion!

The Essence of Fashion

My mother has subscribed to Essence magazine for as long as I can remember. With its tag line "The Magazine For Today's Black Woman", I knew that when it landed in the mailbox each month I was going to be schooled in beauty, fashion, lifestyle, and fierceness from a modern diva's perspective. And I would be introduced to glamorous sistahs who were breaking barriers and climbing the proverbial ladder to success. Oftentimes, I would hover waiting for my mother to finish reading so that I could dissect the content from cover to cover. Essence really is just a darker version of Vogue. So when I started my clothing line, it was one of the first magazines I targeted. In my heart of hearts I was convinced that once my pieces made it onto the glossy pages of Essence, I would be a bonafide success. I pleaded with one of my connections, Deborah Gregory who would later write the Cheetah Girls book series, to make the introduction. A couple of weeks after my very first runway show, I proudly hauled all my samples to the offices at 1500 Broadway where I met the most wonderful fashion team. I will acknowledge that this collection was not the greatest. After all, it was my very first foray into this new and magical world. But everyone treated me with kid gloves and encouraged me to continue and return once I had completed my next collection. And return I did. But it would be a few seasons later. It was when I picked up my own copy of the September 2000 issue that I noticed it had a new look and attitude. After gazing at the very slick, polished photos, I glanced at the masthead to see who was responsible. There was a new team and I knew them! How serendipitous! The fashion director was now Pamela M. whom I had met years earlier at Henri Bendel when I was shopping my dresses around. She didn't think they were right for the store, but she urged me to try Lord & Taylor since it was known as "The Dress Address." I remember thinking that she was so helpful and possessed an easy smile. From time to time, we would bump into each other on the subway platform and exchange pleasantries. This was all before her rise to one of the top spots at the magazine. Immediately, I dialed her to see if I could schedule an appointment to meet with her or forward a press packet with photos of my new collection. She wouldn't believe how far I had come. "This is Pamela M. in the fashion department at Essence. Please leave a meesage after the tone," was her outgoing message. I knew it would only be a little while before my "friend" would call me back. She didn't. Sometimes I would reach her and she would tell me that she was on deadline, but promised that we would get together soon. She expressed excitement to see what I had been up to. But most times I got the voice mail. It was maybe a year later when I bumped into Pamela M. and Susan L. Taylor, the editorial director, on Madison Avenue coming from a bridal show. "Oh my God," I shouted. I could not believe my luck. I told them both how I'd been trying to set up a meeting and that they should really see my stuff. Susan didn't know a thing about me, but seemed interested in learning more. Pamela M. said she would tell her all about me and I handed them both business cards as they eased into their Lincoln Town car and sped off. Still I heard nothing. It was not until years later, after Pamela M. left (or was ousted, depending on who you ask) that I learned that she was not feeling my line and made it her mission to make sure that anything to do with skwilbur would not appear in the magazine. And all this time I played the fool. You live and you learn.

Peace & Fashion!