Charles James & SK WiLBUR

 
Last week I had the pleasure of visiting the Charles James: Beyond Fashion exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  I was first introduced to the genius of Charles James when I was a fashion design student in my 20s  at FIT.  Ushered into the close quarters of the school's fashion laboratory, my class was allowed to marvel at the underpinnings of one of James's works of art while the gloved hand of one of the lab workers peeled back each layer of fabric and tulle.  Needless to say, the experience left quite an impression on me. 

So many years later, when I was presenting my collection of dresses for the curvy woman, I referenced the iconic photo of women elegantly sheathed in Charles James gowns shot by Cecil Beaton.  I just thought it was the height of haute couture.  And I wanted to show that women of size could be just as elegant.  Now after eschewing the bright lights and drama of apparel, my focus has shifted to handbags.  Yet, in the ensuing years,  I am still awed by one of my design heroes.

 

Peace & Fashion!

Under the Glare of the Flashbulb

ADULTERESS Shoulder Bag photographed by Patrick Sayo



Tomorrow is the BIG day.  My sister-in-law, Rebecca Rodriguez, is shooting the editorial pics for the SCANDAL Collection - my fall line.  And I am SO excited!  I can't wait to share all the deets with you next week.  Stay Tuned!

 

Peace & Fashion!

 

It's Not As Easy As It Looks

I remember when I was in 7th or 8th grade and I was on altar duty with the pastor at my parochial school.  There was a series of short films being shown to the student body during the service.  I was the one responsible for moving the tall, 20 ft screen off to the side once the film finished just before the pastor was about to administer communion.  I'd seen my peers move it effortlessly during previous services, so I had no idea how difficult it was.  The weight of the screen was unbalanced, however, and once I attempted to lift it, the screen and I both became very wobbly.  "Oh God, please don't make me drop this thing and then fall on top of it," I prayed silently to myself.  There was a chorus of gasps from the congregation as they watched me struggle to move the screen.  Luckily my prayer was answered and I was able to slowly inch it to the side without it crashing down in the pulpit.

My fashion design career is a lot like that screen I struggled to balance so many years ago in grade school.  I wasn't prepared for the unbalanced weight of it, but somehow I kept my composure and managed to keep it upright.  The last couple of months have been fraught with challenges that have threatened to topple my fashion dreams, and yet somehow I remain upright.

Nicole Z. wears Twizzler dress
with Suede Belt in Grape

This weekend past my sister-in-law packed up her family including my niece, nephew, Biscuit the chihuahua, and my brother and drove to NY to photograph my collection for Fall 2012 called Eye Candy.  She and my brother, N'Gai, have been dealing with their own set of challenges down in Virginia so I was just really relieved that they were all able to make it.  My A-Team that included the make up artist Lisa Warner, stylist Denardo Jenkins, the hat designer Otis Damo'n, and hairstylist Michelle Swiney were all on hand to bring the models to life.  And they agreed to wait for their compensation until my next payday.  Despite the financial challenges of running a fledgling fashion company, we were able to capture some great moments on film and have a good time while doing it.

It is never as easy as it looks, but the results are always stellar.  I am still standing and my dreams are intact.  So I press on.  Forward March!

Peace & Fashion!

Let's Get Away. . .

As I sit here with a laundry list of things that need to be completed to make my September launch of the Wilbur plus-size dress collection a success, what really stands out in my mind is my need to distance myself for a moment from the day-to-day grind.  Don't get me wrong, I am still a fashion-obsessed designer that sleeps, eats, and speaks creativity.  But I could certainly use a break.  A week and a half ago, when my baby brother was here for Father's Day, he announced that he would like to spend his 40th birthday in Hawaii with the entire family.  I am definitely down for that!  But it's not until December and it just cannot come fast enough.  Lately, every magazine I pick up has a piece on the Pacific paradise.  Elle Decor has these great photos of Waikiki complete with places you must visit and Departures features the right kind of things to wear while acting like an "Aloha" native.  Coincidence?  Probably.  Or the universe is dropping me subtle hints that Hawaii is a locale that I need to revisit.  And fairly soon.  My mother took me during the summer of 1986 before I returned to college.  We went with my aunt and my cousin.  That was when I had hair and learned that a luau was the best kind of party comprised of unlimited Blue Hawaiian cocktails.  I've already put my time in at the plantation and so now it is Hawaii or bust.  For now, I bide my time.  Patiently, I suppose.

On Monday, I met with one of my fit models, DeeDee, and my seamstress, Victoria, for our first fitting.  I can no longer squirm out of my commitment to this new venture because it is really underway.  And I keep on getting a positive return of energy.  DeeDee was a doll.  And the site of the dresses on her made me smile as they have begun to take shape.  It really doesn't matter if I am dressing a woman who is a size 4 or a size 14 or a 24.  There is a giddiness that takes over my soul when I see something I dreamed up come to life.  I am sure it's like that for every designer, but since this is my blog I am going to act like it's all about me.  Too focused on the matter-at-hand, I forgot to snap photos of the experience.  But when these dresses are complete, I promise to share the raw footage.  DeeDee so believed in my talents that she saw fit to make an introduction to a business associate.  While I wait for a response from this connection, I am reminded of my sister's words last week.  This is going to be a success.  Just wait and see!

Peace & Fashion!

That's What's Up!

On Monday I visited an associate of mine, Sandy C. She is a personal shopper in the At Your Service department at the Bloomingdale's 59th street store. Personal shoppers have become increasingly more influential because of their one-on-one association with the client. Consequently, they are able to advise buyers on which pieces the consumer is craving for the coming season. Several weeks ago when I was having buttons and snaps added to a couple of pieces, I had a serendipitous encounter with Sandy C. who thought the dresses looked quite saleable. She'd even said that she wanted to see the final outcome. I was encouraged by her interest in my inaugural collection. So I made a mental note to contact her once the look book photos had been enhanced. (Besides being an awesome photographer, my sister-in-law is a whiz with photoshop.) On Monday, at Sandy's request, I carried 4 of the strongest looks in the stretch white cotton fabrication into Manhattan where I presented them in her elegantly appointed jewel box sized office on the fourth floor. I held my breath as she rattled off words like inventive, fresh, and well executed to describe my creations which were hanging before her on the polished silver rack. She assured me that she would sing my praises when passing my info along to the department buyer, who happens to be a newbie to the designer floor like me. She also strongly recommended that I quickly find a showroom who will get the dresses on store racks for next spring. I am diligently working on it, Sandy. But as a retail veteran, it was her reverence that made me believe that this time out the gate I may just be a winner. Now that's what's up!

Peace & Fashion!

Behind the Scenes

I told you about the shoot a couple of days ago. But I didn't tell you about all the technical stuff that was going on in the background. My photographer par excellence, Rebecca, who also happens to be my sister-in-law needed to block each shot before the models took their place on set. A table and chairs were removed from their well-appointed spot in the livingroom and placed closer to the kitchen. And since lighting, composition, and positioning are key components for a beautiful photo, it was my best friend, Donelle, and I who played stunt doubles as we stepped into the role of supermodel. I guess you could say that we are twisted versions of Tyra Banks & Naomi Campbell because what resulted is a pictorial that is absolutely HILARIOUS. And those flaws that you thought only you noticed are all captured on film. Let's just say that I need to look up Valerie Bertinelli so I can get Jenny's number. Security detail, my brother N'Gai and his ace Spencer, even got in on the stunt double action later on when Rebecca asked them to be model stand-ins. All I can say is that I have tremendous respect for models because it is so not easy posing in front of the lens.

Last night, Rebecca and I poured over the footage from Saturday's shoot. The pictures are amazing! And as soon as they are fine tuned, I will share them with you. But I've got a special treat. I have included selections from the portfolio of all of us wannabes so you can howl as much as we did. Enjoy. . .

Peace & Fashion!

Fashion All Day

You're dying to find out, aren't you? Don't act like you could care less about knowing the details of Saturday's photo shoot. It was in one word - MAGNIFICENT! The day could not have gone any smoothly. Originally, I wanted to shoot outside the United Nations. I had even acquired all the necessary permits weeks in advance. But after Mother Nature ordered the heavens to rain down on me, we moved the shooting location inside to a dear friend's apartment. His elegant home was to be our base where we only did outfit changes and made adjustments to hair and make up. But it instead became the backdrop - an instant photo set for the ladies readying themselves for a swanky evening on the town. New York, New York!

The day began with a very early 9:00 a.m. call and ended after several hours at approximately 7:00 p.m. But time did not drag and all of us merrily got along as if we were old friends. Monique coiffed the hair into modern masterpieces - a la Mary J. Blige circa The Breakthrough with a mishmash of Angela Davis & Funny Girl thrown in for good measure. Then there was Alexandra, a wizard with the makeup brush, who painted Vanessa & Valencia as if she were working on great works of art. My sister, Ashanti, is my go to manicurist and she lacquered the models' talons a candy apple red. I love red! My brother, N'Gai, and his comrade Spencer were on hand for security while my sister-in-law, Rebecca, was busy behind the lens. Having borrowed over $12,000 worth of lovely gold baubles for the shoot from my dear friend Camilla Bergeron who is a purveyor of fine estate jewelry, I thought having security was the smart thing to do. And since my baby brother is bigger than me, he was more than up for the task. Luckily, he and Spencer didn't have to let out their inner guard dog! The 2 V girls (Valencia & Vanessa) were not just gorgeous, but professional and divatude-free for the duration of the day. I really cannot express enough gratitude to all of the players. And it was extra special and reassuring having my family there.

Now that this part of the journey is over, it is time to move onto the next phase of the plan. Once I've selected the photos that best show the garments, I've got to hire a showroom to rep my line and get it onto store racks. But as I turn the page to the next chapter, I look back satisfyingly at the fun that we had with fashion all day.

Peace & Fashion!

Fashion's Next BIG Thing?

I am tired. This latest endeavor to launch a line of denim cocktail dresses has been emotionally draining. And I'm not even out the gate! Roadblocks to fashion nirvana have been reported by me ad nauseam. I am so ready for the style council to smile upon me and grant me entree to the VIP area behind the red velvet rope so I can hang out with Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera. When my great Aunt Edie wrote in my 8th Grade autograph book, "The elevator to success is broken - Take the stairs," I had no idea how right she was. So after 11 years of climbing stairs, I am beginning to wonder if the elevator will ever be repaired. As my tailors near completion on the remainder of the looks, I have been hunting for accessories, including shoes, jewelry, and handbags for the photo shoot scheduled on June 20. I called in a favor from my sister-in-law, Rebecca Rodriguez, who is a positively talented photographer to take up the lens after I realized I had no budget to pay my long-standing photographer, Eric. I will be casting the other model for the shoot in a couple of days, but could not work with Ford Models after I was informed that their models do not work for anything less than $1,250 a booking. Ouch! That is just way beyond my company's budget. But after all the dust settles, I know that my journey is very similar to many others who have preceded me. In my heart of hearts I understand that Ralph, Oscar, and Carolina did not get to their perches in the VIP area without struggles. I just wish the elevator was working. . .

Peace & Fashion!